Countdown to Christmas

Though I have managed to remain fairly busy these last few days until my departure from El Salvador, I can’t remember another point my life where time seemed to drag on so slowly, yet pass ever rapidly all the same (well, maybe senior year of high school where I counted down the days until graduation with a paper chain). Certainly it’s due to my undeniable excitement to return home to my family and friends for the holidays. Whenever I talk with my Mom, Dad or sister (who for the first time in probably a decade has beaten me home for the holidays), I am left feeling as though I am missing out on key holiday activities like cookie baking and decorating with Mom and Dana while reminiscing about Grammary, complaining of the smell while Dad pickles herring, and lounging in front of the fireplace to warm my buns and admire the Christmas tree. (This year we have three trees! Why? That’s a good question…)

Yes, I will admit I have been overly antsy and have been counting down the days until the 23rd when I fly home, but I have still managed to enjoy my experiences here in San Luis. And as always, they never fail to keep on coming, to keep me on my toes and to continue educating me.

Alacran!
As I have mentioned in a previous blog entry, my dear Janet sent me a very thoughtful package including all the fixings to make two batches of real, traditional Rice Krispie Treats. I made the first batch with my host sister Leslie the night before I went coffee cutting for the first time, and I was saving the remaining ingredients for another occasion to make the second batch. Well, no real occasion arose in which to make the second batch, but I needed to use the ingredients before heading home. If I didn’t I’d risk my second bag of marshmallows going stale.

So, on Friday after getting off the phone with Mom, Dad and Dana, I was feeling a little home sick and sad I wasn’t at 459 to help make cutout cookies (my famous recipe, of course). Seeing as I don’t have an oven here, baking a batch of my own cookies was out of the question, but Rice Krispie treats were just the taste of home that I needed. Ah, you gotta love emotional eating. I collected the three necessary ingredients-- Rice Krispies, marshmallows and margarine-- and headed to the kitchen to get busy on the gas stove top. I had the marshmallows and cereal measured out on the counter, the margarine was melting in the pan on the stove when I reached over the counter to get a wooden spoon to mix it all up. As I reached, I stopped dead in my tracks at the sight of a two-and-a-half inch long scorpion that was just hanging out in one of my guacals (multipurpose plastic tubs that come in varying sizes). Startled, I stepped back ever so slowly, ran to Mama Chila like a little child to tell her what I found (Alacran! Alacran!) and then ran to grab my camera to take my little kitchen-intruder’s picture. After I was done with the photo shoot, Mama Chila simply took the guacal with scorpion outside and disposed of our little friend. NBD.

I continued my little baking event, then of course gorged myself on Rice Krispie Treats along with Yefri, Rolvin and our dog Snoopy. You may be wondering why Mama Chila nor I freaked out too much about the scorpion, but fortunately aqui in El Salvador, the deadly species of scorpion cannot survive, so the species of scorpion that stings here will simply induce a temporary sensation of numbness and a severe allergic reaction, both alleviated by Benadryl and time. Regardless, I double check my bed every night to make sure that I’m not sharing my sleeping quarters with such an unpleasant bedfellow.

An Evangelical Fiesta Rosa
When I returned to San Luis earlier this past week after having been away for my PC soccer game in Metapan, I came home to find an invitation to a Fiesta Rosa, a fifteen year-old girl’s birthday celebration. In Latin American culture, turning fifteen is a huge occasion and celebrated accordingly. This particular invitation was for the daughter, Tatiana, of one of my favorite ladies in my community, Marina. Never wanting to decline an invitation, I decided to go and purchased a gift while in town last Thursday. This fiesta rosa I was told, was going to be algo diferente than I have experienced because Marina’s family is evangelical. The main implication was that there would be no dancing (dancing is against evangelical beliefs), which traditionally is a large part of the celebration.

So, 2PM Saturday afternoon, the appointed start time of the culto (evangelical mass), came and went, and in true Salvadoran fashion the event started promptly one hour later at 3PM. I sat towards the back with the members of my host family, not wanting to draw attention to myself, but really, who was I kidding? I was, as I always am, the tall, chelita (little white girl) gringa. Even though I have been in the community for nearly four months, the staring hasn’t subsided. I’ve accepted the fact that it very well may never abate.

For those of you who have never been to an evangelical culto, I would advise you to bring your patience along (especially if you are accustomed to the 45 minute Cadillac Special). The service itself was over two and a half hours long, filled with singing, loud praying and the speaking of tongues. I merely sat quietly with a pleasant smile plastered upon my face and saludared when others joined the culto later in the service. About two thirds of the way through the service, after the mother and father of the quinceanera said their prayers and aspirations for their daughter, it was time for everyone who brought gifts to file forward, present them to Tatiana and hug her. When it was finally my turn to present Tatiana with her gift (it was quite the wait as the majority of the community was present), I think she was surprised to see me there, let alone with a gift. I caught sight of Marina, Tatiana’s mother, when I was filing back to my seat, and she looked genuinely grateful I was there. That was the first time I really felt like I was part of the community, that people cared I was there participating, not just acting as a mere observer of foreign events.

When the service was complete we ate, of course. Every guest was served two panes rellenos, which literally translated means stuffed breads, and soda. The bread, like a hoagie roll, was stuffed with chicken, cucumber, tomato, some leafy greens, and then saturated in a special chicken broth sauce. I ate one of my panes with my host family while we chatted with other community members. After a while, it began to get dark and my host mom, Lilian, decided we should head back home.

The rest of the evening I spent enjoying the company of my host family, I had a wonderful conversation with my host sister Xenia and even made plans to go Christmas shopping with her before I leave. Just as I was about to head to my room to read before turning in for the night, Mario, Marina’s son, stopped by the house to bring me a huge piece of birthday cake, sent especially for me from Marina. I was so incredibly touched that the family would think to send me cake, I was bursting with gratitude. A piece of cake may seem like a simple gesture, not worthy of such gushing on my part, but that really solidified me as part of the community, at least in the eyes of Marina. That night I went to bed full of cake and full of Marina’s friendship.

Latrine Lecture
I may sound like a broken record when talking about the needs of latrines within my community, but the truth is they are the number one necessity, especially in terms of community health. As such, my ADESCO directive and I made the decision to pursue a project in latrines. Being the eco-friendly, environmentally conscious Peace Corps Volunteer that I am, I am extremely interested in making sure the latrines we build are composting latrines instead of the traditional pit latrines that are most commonly used in these parts.

What is a composting latrine and why are they so much better than pit latrines, you may ask. Well, in the simplest terms, composting latrines are more sustainable than pits and you can literally turn shit into something extremely useful with very little work. Composting latrines are constructed above the ground, eliminating the possibility for ground water and soil contamination, and have two compartments with two toilet seats. At any given time, only one side is in use. After each use ash, calcium or other dry organic material such as dried leaves are put on top of the waste to aid in drying and to eliminate smells. Once one side is filled, the other side is put into use while the waste on the other side is left to dry for anywhere between six and twelve months depending upon the climate conditions where the latrine is located. After the drying period, you are left with very rich organic fertilizer for use on fruit trees, flowers and other foliage. I realize how gross this may sound, but when the fertilizer is ready, it is decomposed and dried to such an extent that is bears no resemblance to human feces. Besides, people pick up animal poop and clean up baby poop without a second thought; using your own waste in a productive manner shouldn’t be that foreign of an idea either. These latrines are also more sustainable because they, with correct usage, never fill up unlike other latrines that llenar after a period of roughly five years and are rendered useless.

So you’re not so convinced composting latrines are the best option? My community members aren’t either. Even after a meeting yesterday afternoon where I explained all the benefits of aboneras (that’s the Spanish name), many people still had doubts. Only about ten percent of the people who showed up said that they would prefer an abonera to a traditional latrine. I guess if I want to pursue this composting latrine project, I have a bit more convincing to do. But, even if we do end up constructing the traditional pit latrines, the community will still benefit greatly in improved health and sanitary conditions. The way I see it, though, is if you’re going to work to make a place to put your poop, you should make your poop work for you, too. Now, though, it’s time for me to start seeking support and funds to turn this shitty idea into reality. Saber cual tipa de latrina haremos.


So I’m down to a mere two days until I am back in the 716 undoubtedly freezing my butt off. Just imagine this: I have been sitting writing this blog entry while sweating and listening to Christmas carols. Christmas in a warm climate just isn’t right. I am dreaming of a white Christmas, and thanks to my parents, I’ll be home for it. Just as exciting, I will be spending New Years with my beloved ROC loves. I absolutely cannot wait! I have so much to look forward to and so much to be thankful for this year, especially all of you and your continued love and support.

Merry Christmas!